He grew up in a beautiful place, surfing every day possible before and after school, learning the secrets of the Sea. After only a short while he could read the magick of Blacks – knew when the swells were coming in, knew how to hold his breath for a seemingly unreal amount of time, and not fight in the best waves of SoCal. (The Storm of ’84 took NorthPier away)
He was told that he could swim strong before he could even walk. Never knowing his own mother, he found one in the Sea – and gives all that he can back to her, for all that she has given him. She is the one that taught him
learn to enjoy our game
learn to enjoy being tossed,
open you eyes in the underneath
and just be there.
She always cared for him
once he learned not to fight
She taught him my things I only recently remembered
that a life built on dreams at deaths door
can carry you further than ever expected…
He is forever a child of the Sea
but knowing the Sea
finally knowing his mother, and
through tears of pain
he knows that he will probably never find the one
who gave birth to him…
but if it is any consolation, if she ever finds this
I wanted to know you. I have found me, and
I think that you have created an amazing person.
For that, and for your sacrifice, I love you…
I just wish I could have shared me with you, given something back.
I don’t hold high hopes in finding you, but fuck – I’ve tried, and I will again – if only to find your grave.
Such is life. I’m doing what I can to make you proud of this boy… your child…
but for now and ever, I am a child of the Sea…